Autumn Leaves, Chilly Days and Posh Accents... Oh My!

The picture one has in ones mind when they think of Oxford is exactly the kind of place where people use the word ‘ones’ in this context. It’s stereotypically a place of plumbed speech, white sandshoes and trousers, belt and collared business shirt with a sweater or cardigan around the shoulders. Equally it is a place where one imagines students discussing Plato or Keynes. In my mind it has always been the heartland of the Sandstones, the ultimate ‘Hallowed Halls’. For many years I have wanted to come here, admittedly I always figured it would be the ideal place to come as a student, ultimately a Rhodes Scholar, but as that dream has slipped a little further away each year, I am feeling amazed to be here at all. I am here as not a student, but rather a staff member of the University of Oxford. I could buy goods with the university Crest (the same since the 1200s) and know that it is in fact ‘my’ crest. I can have some ownership of the brand and of the history that rides implicitly in the assumptions people have about this place.

In reality, my experiences have done nothing to quell the preconceived notions that I had about Oxford University and the character of this quaint town in the region know as Oxfordshire. I have witnessed discussions about philosophy in the local co-op grocery store, I have 3 bookshops in no more than 100 metres from my flat, I have seen a majority of men in the town sport what we would consider ‘little boy haircuts’ with the side part and floppy fringe. I am in the majority here as a bespectacled individual and I have noticed that there is a great propensity for all-black wardrobes (bearing in mind that here in the Northern Hemisphere we are about to catapult into a dreary grey winter). There are a range of accents to be heard on the streets but the overwhelming shade of skin is white, white, lilywhite. The classic ‘English type’ of fine bones and faded skin with tall, willowy figures is in the majority, and there is a general tendency for people to lay bare their daily grievances in your first meeting, particularly where the weather, taxes, immigration or America is concerned.

The town is big in the sense of the availability of such things as McDonalds, Marks & Spencer (upper class grocery store), Sainsbury’s (regular Safeway type shopping), Boots (Chemist and bits & pieces), KFC, Nike and HMV. It’s small in the sense of walking around. I went for a mosey around last night after work and went to visit one of the colleges and a few shops. Mostly things were closing up, but I did quite a loop of what looked like a very long distance on my tourist map which didn’t end up being a long way in actuality. I visited a gay pub cause the lure of the rainbow flag in the context of so many 13th century buildings was too much (and funny) to bear. I am always flummoxed when offered Fosters like it is some boutique beer, and of course I couldn’t partake …. Eww! I sat amidst 3 crusty and creepy old men and did some writing, feeling that at least I’d given some business to the local gay publican.

The village itself is mostly university owned. It is not one big campus like Melbourne Uni, but a massive collection of colleges and departments. Students stay in the colleges and I get the sense there is a real college rivalry with each college having its own character and history. They were not all built at the same time. I’m hoping to do a college tour on the weekend so I should be able to write more about them then. The city centre has more bookshops than you can poke a stick at with Blackwell’s being the most popular and nicest that I can see. I think it’s actually a bit sad to see Borders so prominently in the main street when Blackwell’s is much much older but seems like it had the original concept for Café Bookshop. In fact they have author talks and signings most weeknights and I saw that PD James is actually here tonight.
Of great interest to Jen I think, Oxford is where they film all the Midsummer Murders and where Inspector Morse was filmed. Its also where Lewis Caroll and CS Lewis exchanged ideas for stories. Apparently CS Lewis got the idea for The Lion, the Witch & the Wardrobe from Carroll’s idea for Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. The tree that the Cheshire Cat is in also can be traced exactly to a tree that still stands in one of the Oxford colleges. There is so much history here and the amazing list of scholars from Oxford who have become world leaders is unsurpassed. I am doing a tour of the Press museum on Monday, and I can only imagine learning about the richness of authors who have been in the offices and walls that I now sit writing in.

Things of interest I have seen/ experienced while I have been here include:

- Seeing my first real live Squirrel!
- Going inside the oldest of all the colleges Balliol College
- Watching the autumn leaves fall on all the trees around town
- The Covered markets
- Noting the number of college shops (varsity shops) with the University of Oxford merchandise. I’ve never understood these, but as a tourist I might go a-visiting
- A £2 bookshop – dangerous. All books £2!! That’s still only $4! Can I get home with a bag of books?
- The architecture. I just love it.
- The bar opposite the press is one of the busiest bars in town … and it’s called Freuds. Fancy that!

I have the biggest urge to write here. It’s hard to concentrate on the tasks at hand. I know my work is valuable but it’s just not the same as using my brain in the way in wants to work. I found out that the Press fund the Clarendon Scholarships – these were the scholarships that I secretly had my heart set on when starting the PhD. It’s a scholarship that Melbourne Uni offers to send a student to Oxford to study. My marks just weren’t there at the time. I am filled with possibility from being here and I wonder what path my ambition will take. It’s anyone’s guess at this point! While not being ungrateful for the amazing chance to be here in the capacity I am, I do wonder whether it is for a greater purpose :D

Anyway, I am meant to be working right now, so I will bid you good morning/afternoon/night and will keep you updated soon. I have a phone to be called on, text if you want the number.

All my love.
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