Jul 24, 2008
Oi Oi Paris, How's it goin' Cobber?, and the Snake Charmers of Northern Africa
Comments have been like a breath of fresh air from home. Thanks all, (particularly Mum and Dad and Dan...)
Paris
Our six nights here were well spent. Four nights were spent at the Hostel Andre Gill, where we were up a few flights of stairs in a cosy double room that got lots of the daylight. The area was the Montmartre - the area renowned for its early 20th Century reputation for artists and prostitutes. We were right around the corner from the famed Moulin Rouge and the 'colourful' district of nightclubs, tourists and red light 'entertainment'. It didn't feel much like the Nicole Kidman film actually... much much seedier, but the beauty of that area was in the gaps. I enjoyed the dirty rawness, and the way that in a bed of flat-earthed Paris, that Montmartre was like a rising beacon in the shadow of the amazing Sacre Coeur cathedral.
The four nights at the first hostel included one day of total nothingness. It was wonderful to just read and not be hurried or worried about what touristic delights we would experience. Another day involved waking up very early and going out of Paris proper and spending the day in Disneyland. Oh. My. Goodness. I was a little sceptical about how much I would enjoy such an Americana fiesta of Schmaltz and commericialism. I never, ever needed to be worried. I loved every second of it, from the disney music playing all across the park non-stop, to the Mary Poppins show, to the rides that scared us out of our wits, to the happy kids all around, to the fake castle and to all the glamour of the kiddie-ness that comes with actually going to Disneyland. Apart from the French signs and bilingual staff we could have actually been in America. It was very strange but also familiar... in some ways more familiar than Paris!
We had such a lot of fun. We rode on the Indiana Jones Roller Coaster which looped upside down, and checked out lots of the little shops. The Pirates of the Carribean ride was on water and was fun but not quite scary enough. Of note, and in no way detracting from the day, was that 2 rides actually broke down with us on them. The worst one was a scary, spinning, Finding Nemo rollercoaster, which rotates 360 degrees while going through the rollercoaster motions in the pitch black. And when we were going top speed it just stopped. The lights came on. An announcement was broadcast in French. And I was panicking! But sooner rather than later it was apparent that it had broken down and they got the Jaws of Life tool to come and release us ... it was uber scary. But the day was fun. We played at Disneyland for 12hours straight.
Other things of note in Paris will have to wait. Sadly my internet time is up and we have to traipse to Sarah's place after arriving from Morroco this afternoon. So, so much to tell you all and so little time it seems... :D
Love to all and sundry
xoxo
See you 12.30am on Sunday morning on an Emirates flight from Dubai!
Jul 21, 2008
A little less torn
I sit at Gatwick Airport in London, and tonight we are staying nearby in preparation for a 6am flight to Africa- Morocco. We arrived in London about lunchtime yesterday from Paris via the tube. It was a surprisingly quick trip and after four eventful nights in Paris I was excited to be in an English speaking country again. It only dawned on me today I haven't yet been in an English Speaking country since I left more than a month ago. It felt a bit like home. Last night we stayed at Sarah's lovely abode and today we enjoyed some Marketing.
I wont be able I am guessing, to be online for 2 days. I get back to London on Wednesday our time.
Love you all and miss you
xx
A little bit torn
So, okay this one is a complete whinge, and for the most part I am really really excited. I could happily come home for a week or so and then return for another month of exploration. I have definitely found my travel sea-legs and I am reluctant to relinquish it... but I must.
Either way at midnight-ish on Saturday night I will be home. Anyone want to pick me up?? :D
I have a hankering for Chicken Chow Min, mum.
xx
Jul 15, 2008
As promised...
This is Charles St Bridge in the middle of Prague. Luckily the place where we stayed was really close by... the end of our street in fact! It's an ancient bridge that spans the main river in Prague. It has little artist markets all across the bridge not unlike the Esplanade Markets in St Kilda.
The view from the top of the bridge. It was so rqiny the day in Prague, but I think on a clear day here, as the song goes, you could see forever.
Prague is not a town of canals but it fascinated me that there was space for water to flow under the buildings.
The first beer of the night in Prague... hehe. We had fun that night.
In Prague on our way to the palace we stumbled across this amazing church. It cost quite a bit to get in but goodness was it grand. And ever so much gold!
The view over Prague.
Buttercup and Prague. Czech out that cheeky grin!
Buttercup and the cathedral at Prague castle. The line to get in was mental but I can see why. It looked so ornate.
The famed Prague Astronomical Clock. I loved the design of this: beautiful.
Another Prague church... look at those spires!
The New-Old Synagogue. The oldest surviving European synagogue. I was so glad we went here.
AMSTERDAM GOODNESS
Febo: vending machine world of heated grease.
Looking at the types that were rushing to eat this stuff would put you off it. It all looked gross.
Amsterdam canal by night.
Not the real Moulin Rouge... but in Amsterdam's Red Light District.
Canal by day
The boredest and saddest mannequin in Amsterdam
I got yelled at for taking this pic. Real Red Light Windows.
We hired a bike :)
Cheese in Amsterdam at market. Yum!
Jul 11, 2008
Prague and Amsterdam and where is our sunny weather?
Now I have got that out of my system I should recount a little of the last few days.
Cesky Krumlov was beautiful. Quaint and medieval town which definitely felt a little like an 'attraction' - sovereign hill... it was actually authentic though! The view there was amazing and for me the highlight was seeing the bears in the moat. Brown bears. Which, I actually forgot to take a photo of. Damn it!
The train ride back to Prague was picturesque. I really enjoyed training both ways. It was relaxing and for the most part we had a compartment to ourselves. Although I think the trains we were on were straight out of the USSR circa 1958. They rattled along and the toilets themselves looked like Stasi prison toilets... and smelt a little like it too. I loved the antiquity of it. I felt like I was in a movie!! The language barrier in the Czech Republic was more noticable ... and when we were sold the Under 26 ticket by mistake at Cesky, we had some headaches on the train for not having the right tickets. (Incidentally the uniforms that the inspectors wear on the trains there look like they come straight out of a Russian Bride porn flick... so seedy and short!) But ticket issues aside we managed through and had some great time getting into Prague.
Our digs in Prague were right in the centre of the tourist part of the Old Town... right down the road from Charles St Bridge, and we were in a comfy room to ourselves. We ended up getting there after 6 and so had a shower, went for dinner at a restaurant called U-Cok-U, and then went for a party on the town. Enjoyed a fabulously seedy venue and danced around many a mojito.
We dragged ourselves out the following day (much to my suprise and satisfaction) and went to see the Prague sights: Charles St Bridge, the Castle, the Astronomical Clock and the New-Old Jewish Synagogue. All that and then we went to the airport and got ourselves to Amsterdam!! So impressed!!
Amsterdam is a vibrant city. On first impressions it seems much like Berlin... I like it here a lot. Had a wander around yesterday and had a stroll through the Red Light District last night... more to tell but only 4 mins remaining of my time. Poo!
I will be sure to write about it here.
I miss you all. Love and kisses for everyone. Thanks for the comments (and the ones on the photos were cool too! Only just found them Mum and Dad)
xoxox
Jul 9, 2008
Beating my record
Got to Prague (or Praha as it's known here) with not much ado... except some ticket issues... and had a great night out last night. Am happy and safe and flying to Amsterdam tonight. Looking forward to it!
I will write more about it in the next couple of days, but Prague is such a stunning city. So ancient and gothic and beautiful. I have enjoyed my time here. Yay for Amsterdam and spending more than a couple of nights (4 in fact!) in one place. Hurrah!
So, with a seedy belly and hungover head I bid you adieu and send love.
xoxo
Jul 8, 2008
Two towns, nearly three
Where we were staying in Venice was actually pretty cute. Kudos to Tanya who booked most of the accommodation, and I was so enchanted with where we stayed in Venice. It was basically someone's Venetian home (hmm... no Venetian biscuits there. How disappointing!) and they had set it up as a B&B. We had a cozy little room and it suited us well.
Venice was very lively. So many tourists, and so many references to Cammedia Dell'Arte characters (which I loved studying at school) and so much to see. I was a bit sad that we only had one night there, next to Siena, Venice was definitely my favourite place I went to in Italy. It
was just so different to anything you have the opportunity to see at home. And like the reports have said, you can see that it is an entire city that is slowly sinking. I always expected the canals to be smelly, and I actually was suprised at how clean they look! As much as it would have been nice to take a gondola ride, they are hugely expensive, and i was happy just perched on a water bus travelling around the canals. I think perhaps my sea legs may not have extended to a gondola ride, as extravagent as they are!
Two nights ago we headed for a full big day of travel: water bus to a bus stop in Venice, Bus from Venice to Treviso airport, Plane from treviso to Prague and then the transport dilemma of navigating relatively blindly through Prague to find our way out to the south of the Czech Rep to Cesky Krumlov. Suprisingly we managed without a word of Czech between us, and weren't too put off from the rude airport staff. We hopped 2 trains out into the middle of nowhere and ended up here in C. Krumlov. A place that feels like an diasporic Fitzroy. So many Australians here, and our hostel is run by Aussies, but oh my goodness. This place is paradise. It has been the first place we've needed jumpers for warmth, but nestled in the mountains near the Austrian and German borders, this place is like a little fairytale hamlet. It even has a castle with Bears in the moat! While we've been here we've been staying in a lovely loft room and have had a chance to have some quiet time, as well as getting out and checking out the town, which I aptly described as 'Daylesford on Medieval Speed'. It is full on little artist colony with cobbled streets and a fantastic vegetarian restaurant. My body is thanking me for nutritious food and I am feeling a little better for some quiet time.
We are heading back to Prague today and our train leaves in less than an hour so I can't stay for ages. I will try to post soon. One night in prague (tonight) and then it's off to Amsterdam for 4 nights. Yay!
I am having a great time and seeing some fantastic things. Tanya has been lovely and is letting me use her second camera, so here are a few choice pics for you all. I am so glad I decided to come away, but I am missing home and missing you all.
xx
This is me. I'm only cursing a little bit that sleeping bag I brought but haven't had need for. I will need some serious massage at home. Anyone offering??
Venice by night. Not a special bridge or anything. The whole city looks like this. It was magic.
Cesky Krumlov by night. This is just a church... and it is stunning.
This is the Cesky castle in the background. Oh my I love this place. I so want to come back.
So love to you all.
oxoxox
Jul 5, 2008
Farewell Florence
We got to see some really cool things... of note, we went to the Uffizi Gallery. It's the largest gallery in Florence and it houses the old Medici collection. Up close and personal I got to see Botticelli's 'Birth of Venus' and Da Vinci's 'The Annunciation'. Apparently it is the biggest collection of Renaissance art outside of the Louvre. It was a full 0n few hours of wandering, and after a while they all begin to meld together, but I was grateful for the audio guide that gave me a new way to understand the paintings. How I wished Dan was there explaining things to me though...
This is only a short little blog cause in half an hour we catch a train for Venice. Only one night there and early tomorrow morning we fly out for the Czech Republic! So it will be farewell Italia. And I must say that although I have enjoyed it here (Siena being the shining highlight), I will be glad to leave Italy and onto a new adventure.
Love to everyone... if you're lurking here and haven't posted... I'd love to hear from you!!
xx
Jul 3, 2008
Rome, Siena and Firenze
I enjoyed Rome, but I think it is not my favourite city in the world. I am glad I went, but overall it is not probably somewhere I would love to return. Although, I didn't get to see the Sistine Chapel, so maybe I would come back for that someday. It would be good to see the artwork that Michaelangelo went blind creating... but I think that is actually the limit of the things that took my fancy in Rome. I loved the coffee though. After Germany it was such a nice change. Made a difference after drinking German gunge... almost tasted like a Lavazza from Lygon St!
I think come Tuesday morning we were both pleased to be catching a train to Siena. The lure of a smaller town and a trip into the Tuscan countryside was enough to excite us both. There were fields and fields of the most gorgeous sunflowers on the way and it brought such a smile to my face each time I looked out of the window. The countryside was as I would expect, but so brown after Germany where everything was so green.
Siena was absolutely picturesque. It's a city that has a wall around it - left over from all the ancient wars, and inside the city are buildings that look like they come straight from a fairytale. Quaint little shops, cobbled laneways and buildings with shutters on them. The hotel we were staying in was just beautiful. We were lucky to get to stay anywhere at all in Siena, but thanks to some forward planning by T we got to stay in a lovely double private room with a beautiful bathroom and a shuttered window overlooking a church and street. I felt like such a princess in a fairytale opening up the shutters and looking out at the day.
While we were in Siena, their Palio festival http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palio_di_Siena
was held. It is a medieval contest between districts of Siena which culminates in a horsrace around the town Piazza where the only rule is that the rider cant grab the reigns of another jockey. The crowd is huge and we went in for two trial runs. I am very glad that we went to watch two in their entirety, because come the big day -yesterday- we tried to go into the main Piazza il Campo, and we waited in the square for 3 hours or more, staked out a great spot at the front, and then when we were in the frontline for a swarm of thousands of thousands of people... and they started charging at us, we thought it was time to leave. It was exhillarating and dangerous and after giving ourselves a fright we were happy to have forced our way out relatively unscathed. But I realised my camera got stolen. Boo. I am pretty cranky about it, but most of my photos were backed up and at least we were ok.
Two nights later we have moved on today to Florence. Its a bigger city than Siena and looks a lot like Rome. But there is so much art and culture and history here... and I am excited. We also have somewhere lovely to stay here and it is a real treat to have a computer in our room.
Am missing you all at home. So excited to hear that Dan and Nella and Mia have found a place. Congrats!! and have been so grateful for all the messages. I love you all.
xoxox
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The Italian Flag.
The sculpture on top of the Shrine in Rome. Look familar? Its so similar to that on the top of the Brandenberg Gate!!
So... Buttercup directed me to the Colosseum. I was excited but suprised there were no tourists there. Until I realised that it was a little little version and not the Colosseum at all! Buttercup was ever so slightly sheepish...
But look how proud she is when we found the real Colosseum!!
Jun 30, 2008
Slightly juicier
The last couple of days have been filled with a sense of relax, settledness, tiredness and heat. I was wrapped to find Tanya at Termini Stazione in Rome, where I was finishing off my second novel since I have been away. In fact for me, I have been chewing through novels. Although this one that I have just finished was a memoir, by melbourne writer Kate Holden called 'In Her Skin'. It's a fantastically written story of addiction and redemption, and my eyes devoured it in 24 hours. Goodness I have been inspired by language - perhaps more so since I have been in countries where English is not primarily spoken or written.
In Rome I have seen some of the main sights. The Colosseum, St Peter's Basillica, the ruins of Ancient Rome, the Trevi Fountain and other bits and pieces. We have spent some great many hours perusing the cobbled streets, which do look rather like Melbourne's tiny Carlton alleys. I have finally enjoyed some amazing coffee - German kaffe is not much chop, but Italian esspresso, is as you would expect: smooth and strong. The Roman architecture is phenomenal, but as a city I am struck by the crazy crazy drivers (no such thing as road rules or pedestrian rights here!), and the grime. There is so much rubbish in the streets and it's really polluted. I am so glad I have come to Rome, but equally glad that we decided that we wouldn't spend all our time in Italy here in the capital city.
Tomorrow morning we're headed for Siena. It's a small town north of Rome. We will get to the Palio there... a medieval horse race that is a festival for the town and entire region. It sounds full of colour and culture, and I am really excited about it! We will get there for one or two nights (hmm I know I'm in holiday mode when I can't remember the day of the week or where I will be when!).
It's fantastic to finally be on this European adventure. The more I am here, the more things I want to see and the more I feel I am learning about people and the world. It can be such an isolating experience in Australia where you get so many snippets of different culture that you feel it is familiar. Although there is so much about Rome that feels familiar (Megalo, Megalo, Megalo... thank you Franco Cozzo), the culture and place is so multifaceted. There is still so much about the world I want to see and experience.
Love to all,
thanks for your comments... I love love love them!!!
xoxoxo
Hi Mum... I hope the non smoking is going well!! Fingers crossed. And the job! Special kisses and cuddles for you...
xxx
PS. I hope your non smoking is going excellently too Dad. ...
Wouldn't it be amazing to come home to find my family are ALL non-smokers? ;)
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The section of the Jewish Museum in Berlin that was designed by Daniel Leibskind. It was fantastic. The most amazing symbolic architecture ever. All about mechanisation and industrialised death. Also about the eradication of evidence of a culture. All we know about pre-WWII Jewish European culture is through the gaps. All we have are small snippets. He captures something so profound in this museum.
This is my innaugral and promised 'Silly Dance' photo. You should have seen the boy's face when he took this. Didnt quite know what to make of me I think!
In Roma in front of the Trevi Fountain. Something that is so cool is that all the water in fountains and from random ancient spouts in the city is entirely drinkable and cold. It comes from the aqua ducts below Rome. I have drank from fountains and it is so good!!
Roma by quickie
Love you
xx
Jun 28, 2008
Goodbye Berlin, Hello Roma!
Not long after I put up my last post, the Aussie guys I had been hanging out with sent me a text to say they were at a bar if I wanted to join them. Given we're all on roaming with our phones I definitelzy appreciated the message. So I finished with my bike (sticking to the footpaths, Dan) and headed back to the hostel for a shower. The place I was to meet them was the artist squat that we had gone to a couple of days before on our tour - called Teschel. This was the old blown out apartment buildings now used as galleries/studios & bars. In Germany it has been football (soccer) mania with the Euro cup coming to a climax and everyone in the city was out on that balmy night to watch the game. For 2 days previously the city centre (right behind the Brandenberg Gate had been cordoned off in preparation for the concerts and stuff for this night... I wanted to steer clear of this area for fear of rioting. So I met Kev & Lisa and they were enjoying some beers on the top of a sculptural platform made of bits of welded together scrap metal. I climbed up full of bravado, but as the 6 meter high structure swayed with the breeze I felt increasingly unsafe and was brave enough to say so... I was relieved to sit in the beer garden and enjoy ground level! Thankfully Germany won, and I had a great night ending in fantastic pizza and revelry.
With tired bones I decided a sleep in was required. It's been so strange cause it gets dark in Berlin at 10-10.30 and is daylight by 4-4.30am, so it has been quite hard to convince my body that it needs more sleep. I slept yesterday til 11.30 (hurrah!) and enjoyed a relatively lazy day. The one thing I hadn't done that was still on my 'essential' list was to see the world's only gay museum. I expected good things... and while I enjoyed, it was such a gay men's history. It featured only a couple of gay women, even though my researched proved German history has a fantastically rich documented history of lesbianism. It felt more likea gallery than museum, and many of the images and names were familar, rather like old friends I hadn't seen for a while. I was struck by severe nostalgia for my studies and was drew to wonder (not for the first time during this trip) whether I will continue, and if so, in what particular specialist area?? It solidified my need to learn German to research in the area though. It has been pretty frustrating to be on the tip of understanding an exhibit if only the labels were in English!
I spent an hour or 2 there, and mozied back to the hostel via Alexanderplatz. I had my infamous and much promised 'Silly Dance' picture taken by some wowser fellow, but I enjoyed and had a good laugh...I will upload that pic in the next batch when it's off my camera. I sat last night in the hostel and chatted to some new recruits. I was so excited to meet a couple of women who were easily in their mid to late 60s travelling for 3 months from Adelaide. I think they could have been gay, but I wouldn't presume. They were so lovely and witty. And they are travelling almost a similar trip to me but via Eurail. Such an inspiration.
Today was an early start - on the train at 6.30 to the airport to Rome via Prague. Thankfully everything went to plan and now I'm all checked in and comfy at the hostel. Tanya arrives tomorrow... yay!! and we will be staying in the same hostel but in a private room. That will definitely be welcome relief. Even just to be able to have a bit of quiet at nighttime... although I've been sharing the dorms with lovely people. I do like this life. It could be very addictive I could see!
For now, much love and kisses.
Signing off from Roma in hot hot hot weather ... 30 and dry sweaty heat..
Always,
A
xoxo
The Hotel ... hmm can't remember the name... anyway, it's directly in front of the Brandenberg Gate and was the site of Michael Jackson's infamous dangling out the window of his son. People like JFK and Mandela have stayed here. And judging by the security on the day I took this, I think someone else pretty special must have been in town. Polizei everywhere!!
This was Hitlers Globe that I spoke of in the last entry... complete with a bullethole through Europe.
And this was his desk. It was specially designed to be huge and imposing. It doesn't seem it here, but i think it would have been about 3m x 2m.
This was the bed that I spent the last 3 nights in. Very comfy with crisp linen.
The Kathy Kurche memorial to the German people affected by war. It's inside, but has a hole directly above it that means that when it rains or snows, the sculpture gets wet. It's very moving and shows a mother cradling her dead son home from battle. The tiles on the floor felt smooth like they'd been washed over and over again in a river
Buttercup and the Reichstag. She begged to be in this one. I took it in front of at least 200 people waiting in the queue!
And when we got to the top, she wanted a picture with the Berlin skyline. She nearly slid right off the top too... the wind picked her up and I had a mild stroke.
Jun 25, 2008
Berlin Gallery
Buttercup at Wombat's hostel after her first night in Berlin. She was pretty chirpy!
Self explanatory!
I took this on Sunday (Sonntag) when i went back to the gay festival. It was a generic dyke with guitar act, and all the girls were really getting into it. She was funny, sang half German & half English, but the English was so accented i couldnt understand any of her lyrics and the one's where I could, the lyrics were appalling. But I really enjoyed and it proved to me the universality of lots of gay culture. In particular, the way the girls watching behaved. Could have been in any Midsumma event really. It made me laugh.
Another one taken the same day at the fest. Some people get off on strange things!
A stall of gingerbread at the festival. So delectable and finely decorated.
I like this shot. In Eastern Germany, the Communist Party built huge amounts of the lego style standard brown apartment blocks. Part of their rule meant that all people had a state house, a job and food. All over Berlin (in the old East) there are still these brown blocks as far as the eye can see. Looks a bit like Carlton commission places, but these particular ones are the type that have been 'capitalised' and renovated... or at least given some colour!!
This is the New Jewish synagogue (which is actually really old). In the Kristallnacht when the Nazis reigned terror on the Jews one night smashing everything in sight (giving it the name Night of Broken Glass), the Nazis came to pillage this one and a German police man stood on the steps and forbade them. Most of them backed away except for a couple of rogue Blackshirts who went round the back and started a fire. There are still traces of this fire at the top of the dome but for the most part the Synagogue survived war bombing. Its such a majestic building.
The Star of David at the top.
Inside the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. Its huge and unnerving. All the concrete slabs put in at odd angles on undulating earth. Too narrow to walk two abreast, and easy to get lost. The earth shape reminded me of the gasses in the mass graves that made the earth move for years afterward. Such a great memorial, but interestingly the American Jewish artist has been accused of stealing the concept from Daniel Leibeskind who designed the Jewish Museum here. Both opened around the same time and Leibeskind's features a similar memorial (supposedly - I'm yet to go there).
This was taken outside the Berliner Dom, which is a cathedral in one of the central squares. It was taken right at the end of the walking tour. The next day (yesterday) I went back and was amazed by the insides. Again, hugely damaged in the war and only recently restored having rotted away in the East for 40 years.
The Museum (now creatively called the Old Museum). It is to the direct left of the Berliner Dom, around the same square. Was the site for many of Hitlers huge torchlight rallies, and I recognise the insignia on the top from so many of his speeches. Was a spine tingling moment to stand there.
Even more spine chilling was taking this photo. This is the site of Hitlers Bunker. Below this spot was where he suicided and where he stayed for the remaining 3 months of the war. He and Eva Braun married in the bunker on the day before their death and Goebells brought their bodies to between these 3 trees and burned them. Later the skull, teeth and more recently DNA has been matched to prove it was actually Hitler that was found here. Such a nondescript place. People spat on the ground.
This is my reflection in the soil on the spot where Hitler's body burned.
A random sign on a light pole that is near my hostel.
The site of the Nazi Book Burning looking across to Humbolt University's front entrance. Notice the rainbow flag!
Random Berliner graffiti. There is some phenomenal art here. Amazing. And absolutely everywhere.
Generic house... but look at all those genuine war residual bullet holes!!
This was the SS Luftwaffe high command centre. One of the only Nazi buildings to survive the war. Still used as a government building too!
The Brandenberg Gate. Site of every political victory with a march through. The Nazis marched through here, so did Napoleon... which is why it is still on Parisier Place. At the minute it has Coke signage all down the bottom and through the other side is a huge stage in preparations for tonight's big soccer match here in Berlin.